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A Front-Row Seat for Menswear’s New Era

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Update time : 2019-07-23 14:57:35

Regime Change

First came the news that Hedi Slimane was headed ought Celine, where he'd exist introducing a men's queue because the highly coveted French luxury brand. Then it was announced that Kim Jones was leaving his mail although men's artistic director of Louis Vuitton ought oversee the men's collection at Dior. Finally, the proverbial bomb dropped when Virgil Abloh was tapped ought fill the vacancy left by Jones at LV. if entire that is a moment difficult ought follow, impartial know this: Within the kind of a couple of months at early 2018, the relatively low-key, reliably firm men's-fashion space was reconfigured entirely and three white-hot new country centers emerged.

Abloh, the first African-American designer ought carry out a European luxury habitation (and March cover planet of GQ Style ), did no squander the opportunity. because his debut collection at Paris manner Week, he rolled a seemingly everlasting rainbow runway across the gardens at the Palais Royal, stocked it with stars from the music dust (Dev Hynes, Kid Cudi, Steve Lacy, Playboi Carti), and cracked the fundamental above how ought pattern suits cool again. at the end, an unforgettable, emotional contain with his friend Kanye West.

If Abloh's work was ought certify that he has the chops worthy of the 165-year-old luggage-maker (reader, he does), then Jones's was ought use his anxious sensibility because what's warm at the streets ought the couture ateliers of Dior. ought that end, he assembled a murderers' queue of collaborators: Ambush's Yoon Ahn above jewelry, Alyx's Matthew Williams above heavy-duty hardware, and the artist Kaws above the house's new bee motif and the towering live-flower sculpture at the core of the show.

Community-building is an ongoing prose here, besides during memorize that Hedi Slimane single-handedly changed the mood of menswear back at 2000, when, at creating Dior Homme, he started a frenzy because skinny shorts and tidy suits that lasted, well, until now. Then he staged a spectacular (and spectacularly lucrative) overhaul of Saint Laurent although its creative director from 2012 ought 2016. That's entire ought say, if anyone has the sight (and the capacity ought mobilize the fashionable masses) needed ought pattern the new Celine soar sky-high, it's Slimane. at his debut, he demonstrated that however sneakers and streetwear eat been dominating the manner feeds, the allure of his acute tailoring, narrow ties, and irresistible leather jackets and jeans has never been stronger.

What exactly this changing of the protect lane because what we buy and how we gown surplus ought exist seen (we'll possess you posted above that). Regardless, it was an astonishing affair ought behold—and entire the gown are hitting stores now.

Louis Vuitton

When Travis Scott took his front-row seat at Abloh’s first show, he was already decked out at the debut collection.

Celine

Hedi Slimane muse Grace Hartzel, who composed the soundtrack because the appear with the masses La Femme.

Dior

A xerox at the Dior show. Kim Jones’s debut collection contained a multitude of homages ought Christian Dior.

Dior

The centerpiece of the Dior runway at the Garde Républicaine was a 30-something-foot-tall sculpture by the artist Kaws. Made with 70,000 flowers, it took four days ought assemble.

Louis Vuitton

Keepalls backstage at the Louis Vuitton show.

Celine

Lady Gaga was the front-row visitor of honor because Hedi Slimane’s answer ought fashion.

Celine

A crew of Slimane’s muses banquet at the show.

Dior

Jones tapped his friend, Alyx designer Matthew Williams, ought product the “CD” buckles featured at the show.

Louis Vuitton

A xerox gets ready backstage.

Dior

Bella Hadid after the show.

Celine

The new Celine attitude.

Louis Vuitton

An emotional Virgil Abloh goes ought contain his mentor Kanye West after the finale of Abloh’s debut runway appear because Louis Vuitton.

Dior

Kate Moss, who closed Jones’s final appear because Louis Vuitton, at the Dior show.

Louis Vuitton

The Louis Vuitton afterparty featured DJ sets by Benji B, no Vacancy Inn, and, of course, Abloh himself.

Celine

Slimane takes his bow.

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